Getting rid of the bugs

Time to replace the right rear disk. The others are passable for now. Best deal was from Rock Auto. $92 to my door. Best local price was $98 plus tax.

Just gonna use a floor jack for this simple job. In the end I should have put it up on the quick jack!

An original rotor. The five rivets are still in place.

Unlike other cars this rotor is not connected by a flex hose. So the brake line and caliper needed to be removed. The brake fluid wanted to drip out of the line so I used a plug to keep from draining all the fluid out of the master cylinder. I should have put a plug in the caliper as well. It wanted to shoot fluid out when I pushed apart the shoes to get it on the rotor.

I centre punched the rivets as best I could and drilled in about a 1/4″ with a 1/4″ drill. The rivets seem to be mild steel so the drilling was fairly easy with a sharp bit.

I then went at the holes with a 3/8″ bit and the rivet heads came off on the drill for the most part.

Some gentle tapping with a maul and the rotor slipped off.

All original as dusty with a patina of rust. The rear shoe has a bit broken off the top end and the rivets are just holding it on. Should be OK until I redo all the parking brake system. I’ll spray it down with brake clean and then blow it out with air. A little spray of white grease will keep it good for now.

More soon…

Test and fun run

New tire on and a good second test run. The brakes were pulling to the left, but after some trial braking it cleared up. Then it was out with my wife to the KFC for supper. Good thing the brakes were working OK as I had to slam them on to stop from hitting a deer that leap onto the road in front of us – whew!

There is a bit too much play in the steering so that needs to be adjusted and the drivers window isn’t working correctly yet so I’ll look into that. I noticed a bit of ‘creaking’ when turning in a parking lot. I suspect that the universals are wearing out. After 45 years and maybe 144, 000kms the grease in the original universals is likely dried out. None of the universals have grease fittings so I expect they are original units,

Gettin’ ready for the next test run

The tire shop checked out the damaged tire and found it was cut through at a point on the i bottom bead – go figure! The tire is toast and happily the road hazard warranty will cover the cost of a new tire. It should be in next Monday so hopefully the weather will cooperate and I can get another test drive in.

This is on the left rear where I’m having tire issues. Not so nice. I’m checking out a new disk. So far the best price is from Rock Auto. I’ll check with CarQuest on Monday and see if they can do any better than the $92 all in at Rock Auto. the other three disks are holding out fine.

On the test drive the engine idle RPM was too slow and it was stalling. So I upped idle by a 1/4 turn and we’ll see how that does. I also opened up the idle mixture screws 1/8 turn in case it was too lean for a hot idle. Easy to adjust both on this side.

I like the Q jet albeit more complex than a Carter AFB or Edelbrock successor. Only other gripe is that the fast idle setting screw is almost totally hidden behind the linkages on the right side. Also the idle mixture screw on this side is a bit difficult to get to. All of these little bugaboos will mean nothing after the carb is running properly – no need to look at it again for a long, long time:-)

Old car adventures

First time out to clear the cobwebs from the Chevy and I run over something on the road and my nice new right rear tire went flat! Hopefully no damage to the rim. I have road hazard warranty for another month so I hope it covers the cost of a new tire if the sidewall is slashed.

Fortunately I had a good spare on hand. I called CAA and they came along and changed the tire. Easier for them as they have a garage jack which is much better than the small scissor jack that is with the car. Still I could do the job if I had to, with the tools I keep in the car.

Just about there

Got the ’66 on the road yesterday 🙂 Headed for a gas station as I was low on fuel. 1/3 tank cost me $40 so I can expect to pay about $100 for a fill up if I don’t get too close to empty!

All went well including the AC. It is a lot quieter now that I have new window run felts in the front doors. I think I’ll stay with the front bumper. Looking forward to doing the rear doors and hood next winter. In the meantime I’m supposed to hear from the upholstery shop about getting the bucket seats and rear seat redone,

The ’79 is still waiting for it’s turn to have a startup run. I’ll get it out soon and then I’ll be able to fine tune the carb and check that my power steering work is OK.

This ‘n’ that

Ready for painting.

Hard to see the paint jobs, but I painted the driver’s door with the original Richelieu Blue metallic. Turned out OK with a couple of coats of paint and a couple of clear coat. I used acrylic enamel for both the paint and the clear. The passenger door is done in satin black as I also painted the new fenders and rockers.

The car is now ready to get on the road as soon as the salt is washed away:-)

Meanwhile my buddy Don is working on his ’57 Studebaker project car. Nice job of patching the inside of the fender.

Less patching needed on the passenger side fender.

There are always hitches in these projects. This is the heavy duty 3 spd auto with overdrive that is attached to the 350 LS Don is planning on putting in the Stude. You can’t see it but at least three of the mounting ears are cracked! It is a one piece case so to repair will mean finding another trans and swapping out the internals. Not an easy job to find a donor and do the swap. Happily Don has a 700R4 three speed OD trans from a Firebird that he recently bought, stripped and junked. This might be better as the 700R4 is smaller than the HD trans now on the engine and it will be easier to fit in the Stude.

Next: waiting on a donor 350 for the ’79 Chevy

Spot putty filling

Bondo brand Spot putty applied over the sanded tiger hair fibreglass patches.

First coat of spot putty sanded off and more added to fill spots missed. I decided to do a bit more on the passenger door just to see how smooth I could get it. I sanded the tiger hair with 80 grit paper. I’m sanding the putty with 320 grit. Hopefully that will be good enough for a smooth paint finish.

Original front bumper back on the car. I think I like it better. More classic looking than street rod.

Next: spring is here and I need to finish the Studie and get it on the road for it’s spring shake down run 🙂

Door progress and ’57 update

Left front door finished and back on the car. It went a lot faster and easier with lessons learned from the other front door!

Both door sides need the trim holes filled and there is a small dent on the left door needing attention. I have sanded it down and then coated the bare metal with Rust Converter to be sure any rust left over is turned to primer.

I opted for this setup rather then using the grinder and a flapper wheel. A lot less noise and flying dust this way. With a smaller wheel it worked better for the smaller grinding needed.

Ford rims and temporary tires on the ’57 Studebaker project.

The engine has been moved out of storage and soon will be positioned in the car so that new motor mount pads can be fabricated.

In between some small rusted out areas on the fenders need to be fixed. Same problems with front fender rusting that all early cars without inner fenders suffered.

Next: Finish door repairs and put the front bumper back on and see if I like it better with a bumper than without.

More door work and a street rod project.

Starting work on the passenger side front door. It should go easier with lessons learned from the first door.

The regulator was pretty stiff so I decided to get it on the bench were I could get at all its ‘joints’.

Likewise the door latch.

Old seal glue removed, rusted areas sanded and taped off ready for paint.

Back to the drivers door. Seal and door panel in place.

To seat the new seal which is making closing the door stiff, I moved the door striker out a tad so it was easier to close. I will leave the seal to take a set for a couple of days then over a few more days, move the striker back in bit-by-bit until the door is closing properly.

This is a shot of a friends ’57 Studebaker Champion that he is doing over into a nice classic driver. He has adapted an original Mustang II front end to the body at this point.

He has upgraded the front end with 11″ brakes and has overhauled the power rack. The original frame fronts are back in place to fit the original front end components. He has also replaced all ball joints, springs and bushings.

This is a late model LS 350 Chev engine and overdrive trans from a 3/4 ton truck van that he plans to install. It will also include air conditioning.

I’ll post his progress from time to time.

One step back!

Paint went on fine, but then the fish-eyes appeared. There is grease on the door latch mechanism and I must have spread it around when I was wiping down with paint thinner.

Not too big a job sanding it down and cleaning it with thinners.

Meanwhile I’m getting other work done in preparation for re-assembly. All cat whiskers now riveted and ready to be installed once I finish going over the doors.

Second go and I got a good result. Three coats of blue and two coats of clear coat.

Door complete except for the seal which I will put on when the door is installed. I want to leave the paint for a few days to cure well before gluing on the seal.

Next: The other door and filling the trim holes in both doors.