A little blurry. I’ve started the new pump seal in place by hand and with a little tap using a piece of wood to get it started straight.
There are times when I could use a shop bench press. Here the housing and seal are in my bench vice which works good as a press for small jobs.
Seal evenly seated. Sweet!
The shaft looks real good except for the area where the new seal will seat. You can just make out where the old seal ran on the shaft.
A little run around with a piece of 1500 sand paper followed by crocus cloth (using a wide shoe lace) and the shaft is nice a smooth for the new seal.
Here the smaller pin is in place to hold the pump outer cam ring from turning.
Type F automatic trans fluid is what I’ll use in the pump. I built a pump for my ’54 Champion and I used regular power steering fluid by mistake. In an earlier blog I showed a photo of the pump reservoir filled with pink foam. I had to drain the system (not a fun job) and refill with ATF. I used type F because I was also using it in my ’66 Flight-O-Matic. Seems to work fine. The folks on the Studebaker forum recommend other types of ATF if you can’t get Type F for Fords.
The instructions with the kit and in the shop service manual instruct the builder to be careful when installing the pump shaft so as not to damage the seal. With that sharp lip on the shaft there is no way to push it through from inside without damaging the seal.
It can be easily pushed in from the outside without seal damage.
I did install the pump outer cam ahead of time. Here I have fitted the larger pin into the slot in the pump shaft for the inner part of the pump. I tried to use ATF in the assembly process, but it didn’t work all that well. Although the ATF is an oil it isn’t a slippery lubricant. In fact, it seems to resist putting together tight fitting parts like the pump cam in the pump body. I ended up wiping it off to get part to fit. So if I was to do it again I would do the job dry and just flood the pump once it is together.
The inner pump rotor slipped into place over the recessed pin in the shaft quite easily and then I put the new rollers in place. The big and small ‘O’ rings are in place with a coating of ATF.
I put together the two pump halves and snugged it up with three bolts. I will do the final torque when I attach the two mounting plates. Here the pump flow control valve and spring is just going in. I torqued the nut with the a O ring to the recommended 35 ft lbs.
All cleaned up, sanded, and ready for painting.
Next, getting the engine mounted on the dolly.