
I used a bit of chassis lube on the pins to make it easier to turn them later on. I made sure that the hole in the pins faced backwards. That is where an allen key is inserted to turn the pin which is eccentric, to adjust the caster and camber.

Next I’ll use various shims to set the play for the spindle on the king pin.

Before starting the measurement I made sure all the over-paint was removed from the king pins and spindle machined surfaces. (Notice the rounded inside shoulder on this pin. I’ll refer to it later)

Following the manual instructions first you place the spindle on the king pin and use a .003 to .006 feeler gauge between it and the king pin shoulder. This will be the correct play.

Next a shim is placed behind the thrust bearing at the lower end of the king pin. You keep doing this with different shims or combination of shims until the thrust bearing is just even with the shoulder on the king pin. This worked pretty well for one king pin but the other was a problem. For some reason the inner shoulder at the top of the king pin would not allow the spindle to fit flush to the king pin at the top. However the thrust bearing would as it has round shoulder on the inner race.

So now I need to put the spindle up against thrust bearing with a shim in place. I then need to adjust the shims until I get about .005 clearance between the king pin shoulder and the spindle end.

To do this I made up this jig.

Now I just had to measure the space between the flat washer and the spindle. Ideally I would have used the steering knuckle for this purpose, but I just didn’t want to tear down one of the a-arms to do this. So I made do with this setup. Not perfect, but I was able to fit it so that .006 was too big and .005 just fit. I decided to do the same for the other king pin as well.

Next step will be to get the a-arms back in place