Parts to be sandblasted. I needed to keep sand out of the lifter valley cover. Don’t want sand in the oil pump chewing away at the gears and pump body walls.
All sandblasted and ready for priming.
Starting the priming process. Since I didn’t worry about getting absolutely all the rust out I’m using a rust friendly primer – Tremclad (oil based). I’ve had good luck with Tremclad products in the past. Not sure if they are in the US, but I would guess it is US product and available most places. I will be brush coating the parts. Slow yes, but I don’t have a good warm spot that I can use to spray. This way I can get the paint on in my shop with my cars close at hand and not have to worry about paint mist getting everywhere. I will put on a coat of Tremclad satin black by hand as well. Once the engine is all together and hopefully that will be in summer, I’ll move out the cars and spray the engine with a final coat of gloss black.
Pan screws. Sandblasted and cleaned.
5 minutes later and they are primed. Why waste my time cleaning bolts and screws? One reason is that this is a budget project. Most of the screws are grade 5 and that will add up if I replace all the fasteners. Another reason is that Studebaker used good steel it seems. After years in the outdoors I’ve been able to remove rusted screws and bolts with little difficulty and without breaking them. I have used stainless screws and bolts in other projects, but for this one I’ll keep the Studebaker fasteners where ever reasonable.
Time to check out the R1 oil pan. Not too bad inside.
Sides and lip heavily pitted, but passable.
Bottom ditto, but there are some deeper dangerous pits.
A nasty bang and crimp in the front lower edge. Might not stand being hammered out.
Cleaned up the inside looks better. You can see the crimping at the front edge.
Cleaned up it looks somewhat better. Not sure what to do with this. I hate to give up the R1 pan as it would make the project less of a clone. And I don’t happen to have another R1 pan handy!