Basic tools needed to adjust the valves cold. 1/2″ wrench to turn the lifter screws, a 1-1/2″ socket to turn the crank using the crank screw, .025 feeler gauge (Intake) and a .027 gauge (exhaust- combination of two). I’m using two feeler gauges so that I’m not bothered with switching back and forth.
So as not to get mixed up I marked each valve rocker as intake or exhaust. There are any number of ways to adjust the valves cold. I chose to use the method suggested by Jim Pepper and recommended by Isky cams.
You do one cylinder at a time. Rotate the engine until the exhaust lifter is just beginning to rise – adjust the intake. Then continue to rotate until the intake closes – adjust the exhaust. I went around the block once and then a second time to make sure all were adjusted correctly. Again there are different ways to use a feeler gauge. I prefer to set them gap so that there is a slight drag pushing it in or pulling it out.
Next it was time to restore an old dried out cork gasket for the valley lifter cover.
Way too short to fit any more.
Here I’ve laid it on the bench on some paper towels and soaked with water. I covered it with a cotton cloth and soaked that too so that the gasket was wet top and bottom. I left it that way for a couple of hours. Quicker if you immerse it in hot tap water – not boiling water. Usually 20 minutes works fine.
After a good soaking I was just able to stretch it on the cover. I needed some extra help from a couple of rubber bands and a block of cork, from an old gasket, to get it to fit into the reverse curves. I’ll leave it like that till it dries. I’ll then add some Perfect Seal to both sides, let it firm up and then put it in place.
From here on things will be moving a bit slower. Summer and lots of other things to be done. I’ll post when I do get a chance to work on the engine. I’m keen to get the engine installed and run in.