In my last post I was busy stretching an old (likely 40+ years old) all cork gasket for the lifter valley cover. The elastic bands was my way of trying the get the gasket into the reverse curves.
I decided to use some Perfect seal on this gasket as well. The sealant wants to settle out quite quickly. I used a bent piece of coat hanger in my hand drill to mix it up each time I used it. I then coated the side that fits to the cover.
Here it is back on the cover and with its downside also coated with a thin film of Perfect seal. Hard to see, but there are new copper sealing washers on the hold down bolts. They are originals from Studebaker – still made with what appears to be asbestos and copper. I’ll use a 1/4″ socket drive with a straight handle to tighten things down. The manual calls for 3 to 3.5 ft lbs of torque. This way I shouldn’t get them over tight.
I hate trying to line up oil pans, lifter covers, etc when I have a gasket covered in sealant. I like it to fit were its going to stay. So I put in headless guide bolts in place to line things up.
Lifter cover in place. No problem getting the bolts started since the guides kept everything lined up. A bit of tape to keep things from falling into the engine and causing me to have to remove the valley cover or the heads – not my idea of fun. I also took the opportunity to fit brass plugs in all the oil gallery holes and fitted a new temperature sender in place as well. I will have to be careful not to damage it when it comes time to install the engine.
Last job on the block will be installing the water pump housing. Note the fuel pump opening has been blocked off. I’ll be going with an electric fuel pump from the start.