I need an engine dolly so that I can access the back of the engine to install and dial in the bell housing. The block and bell housing are not a matched set from the factory so a dial in needs to be done to ensure that the transmission is directly in line with the crankshaft. If it isn’t the trans will destroy the engine-to-trans flex plate in short order.
These are most of the pieces needed to make up an engine dolly. Just some old project wood lying around, four used 4″ dolly wheels and some decking screws.
I used the edge of the floor mat in front of my work bench as a straight line to start from. The cross pieces on the bottom will hold the dolly wheels. They are each 26″ long. the two top rails are each 33″ long and are exactly 20″ apart measuring from the outside edge of one to the outside edge of the other. Using a tape measure and square I got everything lined up pretty close. I used a miter saw to cut the wood. That way I got good straight edges and uniform lengths. When all was square I put one screw through each top and bottom board – rechecked the measurements and squareness – then put two more screws in each corner.
Next I flipped the base over and started putting on the dolly wheels. I needed some big screws with large heads to hold down the four wheel bracket corners.
I’m putting the brackets right to the edge of the boards. To prevent splitting I pre-drilled for each screw. This piece of wood came from our old farm house when we did some remodeling. It is likely close to 100 years old and super dry and hard. Even with pre-drilling the wood was close to splitting.
Dolly wheels installed. I used two locking wheels on opposite corners to hold the engine from moving if I needed to.
Time to put the uprights in place. These will be mounting spots for the engine’s front mounting brackets. They are 4X4 pieces. The tops are 2″ wide with the rest shaved away at a 45 deg. angle. I needed a couple of pieces of wood for gussets to help hold the uprights in place. I also have a short piece of wood to join the two uprights. The uprights are mounted on the top 2X4 pieces and are kept exactly 20″ apart (outside edges)
Uprights in place with gussets and one long deck screw on the inside of each. The cross piece is 8″ below the top to make sure the front the of pan will not hit.
The rear cross piece and uprights will be fitted once the engine is resting on the front uprights and still being held up with the engine hoist. The rear uprights will fit along the pan lip near the rear of the engine. I will taper the tops of the uprights so that they fit inside the pan lip and rest on the pan bolt heads.
Next, moving the engine from the engine stand to the dolly.