Of wrinkles, tools and sway bars

So you do your best and what happens – wrinkles!  Something in the old paint didn’t like the primer.  Now its wet sand the bad areas and re-prime with a different product.

Here’s the tool I talked about in the last post.  I believe it is a Lisle product though I couldn’t find a logo on the tool.  Is is made in the US.  I previously bought a similar tool from Princess Auto.  It was made in China and wouldn’t grip anything, especially a pulley.  This tool really grips well.  It’s a plastic handle with a serrated band that fits serrations in the handle. The other side of the strap is noticeable tacky.

This is the top of one of the sway bar brackets.  It seems flimsy and is bent.  I decided that I would beef up the cross piece with some heavier stock.  Then I looked at the fit of the bracket on the car and realized what Studebaker was up to.

A little hard to see but the cross piece is spanning a factory gap in the frame.



Here’s a shot of the factory gap that the cross piece fits over.  It seems that the metal is meant to bend into the gap somewhat which  keeps the bracket stable laterally.  Pretty poor setup.  Not sure why they didn’t make frame changes later on to eliminate this gap so the mounting bold could be held in place by the lower frame plate.

All the sway bar parts sandblasted or wire wheeled and ready for paint.  I have some POR15 epoxy paint that I’ll use.  The parts won’t see direct sunlight so they should remain shiny.

The new sway bar bushing is on the left.  The bar size is obviously larger.  The later model bar is 3/4″ and the old bar is 5/8″.  Not a big difference and certainly smaller than the aftermarket bars.  However, this is a 6 cylinder car so I hope to see an improvement with even a slightly larger bar plus the improved mounting location – the original bar mounted at two points on each lower A arm.


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