While waiting for paint to dry I continued torquing things down. The two ball fittings – one on the reach rod and one on the ram. There is no way I can torque them to the 50 lbs recommended using a proper torque wrench so I just had to do it by feel while watching for the castle nuts to align with the cotter pin holes.
These also arrived from Amazon.com while the paint was drying. They turned out to be too wide (1/2″) while my vibration dampener is only 1/4″ wide. In the end I cut off the numbers and kept the long and short lines.
Fits nice. Hope the glue holds. I put my own numbers on the long lines. I have some tweaking to do on the advance and this should help. Jim Pepper of the Cooperators has given me some tips about the best settings for static, distributor and vacuum advance settings. Another job for a little later on.
Finally got to test fitting the PS lines. Here I have the right and left hoses ( to move the ram) in place. Next is the pressure and return hoses. Very little wiggle room and not a whole of printed info to help with the install.
The best information I could find is the PS routing diagram in the parts book. It indicates the left and right turn hoses but, the diagram is small and the exact placement of the hoses on the control body is not all that clear. The pressure and return hose openings are easy (bigger and smaller than the turn hoses) but, you have a choice of two openings for the turn hoses. Hope I got it right as I don’t have an existing PS setup to check. On top of all this you have a choice of two openings on the ram to pick. I put a finger on one of the openings and moved the bell crank and if I felt a vacuum, then that was the line for the opposite direction that the bellcrank moved – vacuum when moving the bellcrank to the right means pressure in this opening will move the wheels to the left.
I’ll be away for a couple of days so I won’t be blogging for a bit.