Driveshaft work

The driveshaft (top) is just about an 1″ too long with the new engine/trans setup. Fortunately I happened to have an old driveshaft that is about 1″ shorter (47″ vs 48″). The alternative would have been to take it to a local drive line shop to have it shortened and re-balanced. That would likely have cost $200 or so.

Here it is after cleaning and primed. It has a lot of surface rust, but no deep pits so I’m hoping it will be fine.

In the car and ready to go. I was going to use the original universal joints as they only had about 30k miles on them, but in the end I used new units. This way I won’t need to take the drive shaft out any time soon which is a messy job with automatic fluid wanting to drain out of the rear of the trans. New universals cost me about $20CDN each.

I’ll be putting AC in the ’66. I picked up a used ’65-’66 original evaporator from Stephen Allen’s. I’ve ordered a universal under-hood setup including a Sanden compressor. I already have a York mount on the engine. I have also ordered an adapter plate to mount the Sanden on the York bracket.

I have disassembled the unit, cleaned as needed and tested the motor.

The front plate is chromed cast. The directional louvers are black plastic with faded chrome. I sand blasted the front plate and then used high build primer to fill all the pits. It too quite a few coats to get smooth. Next time I’d use spot putty and high build for the final smoothing. I cleaned and sanded the louvers then gave them a coat of gloss black paint.

Next will be more work installing the evaporator and finishing the hook ups for the trans.

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