This and that

Since the trans sits abt 1″ further back with the 289 in place of the 283 things don’t connect as they came off. The shift control adjustment is just long enough and the speedometer cable is an even closer fit. I may have to install a longer speedo cable if I start to have binding problems.

I’m using Permatex Anti-Seize on the exhaust manifold bolts. The torque range is 25-30 ft lbs. I’m considering the Permatex as a lubricant so I’ll tighten to 25 fl lbs which should equate to about 27-28 ft lbs.

It is easier to install the starter before putting the exhaust pipe on the left exhaust manifold. This a my overhauled Prestolite starter – brushes changed and bearings checked and replaced as needed. I also installed a bendix which I also, dissembled and checked beforehand. I bagged and marked the special starter bolts so I wouldn’t lose them.

When I installed the plate behind the bellhousing I fitted the starter bolts in their holes. So now they slipped into place easily.

I fitted the starter and then snugged it up with the two nuts. I then removed each nut, applied a bit of blue Lock Tight and put them back on with new lock washers.

A bit of a trick getting a torque wrench in place, but it is doable using an inch lb unit.

Next job is installing the JT pan breather tube/dipstick mount. I’ve made up a couple of 5/16″ fine mounting studs. The gasket and bolt threads have been given a coat of Permatex sealant and let stand for about a half hour to set up nicely.

All going good with two bolts in place. I’m trying to use a copper gaskets to give an extra level of seal. The breather tube on my old Avanti R1 was bad for leaking so I’m doing my best this time for a good seal to keep the hot oil in the pan and not on the garage floor!

Always hitches it seems. With the vent tube in place it is hard against the exhaust manifold. I have no idea why. I’d prefer a little gap so that the exhaust manifold doesn’t burn off the vent tube paint. So off it comes.

I have some 1/8″ thick composite gasket material for gas and oil. The original paper gasket was about 1/64″ thick. By moving the vent tube away from the pan I should get some clearance.

The copper washers went to pieces so as you can see above I’ve gone to the normal lock washers. This time I won’t be able to use gasket sealer. The thicker gasket will tend to squeeze out on the edges since the sealant doesn’t harden up. The same goes for using silicone high temp sealant.

This is me trying to use silicone. I applied a thin coat on the gasket and just snugged up the bolts. I left it overnight for the silicone to set. When I tried to torque the bolts to 17 ft lbs the gasket squeezed out and the bolts didn’t reach the proper torque. So off it came again, a new gasket cut and the whole thing put back on and torqued down dry.

The tube is away from the mainfold a matter of thousandths of an inch. It will have to do because the dipstick tube has to fit between the exhaust manifold and the block. No much wiggle room at all. Next I finished installing the trans filler tube and the exhaust pipe (loosely).

Next will be setting up the AC.

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