I have already installed the pump and now it’s time to get the rest of the parts installed. Not shown are the 4 hoses to connect the everything up. Power steering bellcranks have an extra arm and the reach rod is different as it connects the control valve hanging from the pitman arm to the bellcrank.
I didn’t install the bellcrank earlier because I didn’t want it in the way when I installed the engine. However I did install the bellcrank bracket. This now was a problem. I couldn’t get the bellcrank to fit onto the tower – the engine pan was in the way. I didn’t want to drop the tower out of the crossmember as it would be a pain trying to hold it up and fit the bellcrank on it while I tried to get the tower mounting bolts started. So I loosened the tower bolts one at a time, removed the lock washer and then twisting the nuts back on just a couple of threads. That done I was just able to slip the bellcrank over and onto the tower pin.
I had to install the reach rod to keep the bellcrank from moving too much when I torqued the pinch bolt to 65 ft-lbs. Also it calls for a lock washer on the pinch bolt nut, but the bellcrank surface seat is not machined and there is a chance the lock washer might not get a good bite. So instead I used a serrated locking washer which would catch good on at least two points.
Then next step is to install the tie rods. I kept them at the original lenghts after I took them off for cleaning and painting. They are the same length measured between the inner and outer grease nipples. I didn’t think I would be able to torque the inner tie rod ends, but if shifted all to one side there is just enough room fit a torque wrench.
This is my handy wrench extender which if I remember correctly I got from Lee Valley Tools. I torqued each tie rod end to 50 ft-lbs and then used this set up to move the castle nut to line up with next cotter pin hole.
I used this setup to get the steering wheel and the tires in a straight ahead position so that I could set the reach rod to the correct length – it is screwed in or out of the control valve until it lines up with the hole in the bellcrank arm with the wheels in the straight ahead position.
The track of the rear wheels on this model of Lark is 56-9/16″ as opposed to the front which is 57-3/8″ – a difference of 13/16″ So I needed to block out the string abt 6.5/16″ to get a straight line from the rear sidewall to the front. Earlier Studebaker manuals used this setup to set the toe. I will do the same once the car is on the floor.
With the string just touching the sidewall of the front tire and the steering wheel in the center position I then adjusted the reach rod until it just fit in the bellcrank. I then tightened the reach rod pinch bold on the control valve.
A Stude buddy of mine installed an oil pressure gauge on the front of the engine. I thought it would be a good idea. Then I wouldn’t have to keep going back into the car to check the oil pressure when I break in the engine. I used a GT Hawk gauge with the mounting tabs cut off plus a nipple and union to get the gauge high enough to miss the head.
I’m going to install an electric fuel pump and I use an oil pressure switch to ensure the pump does not continue to work if the engine stops as a result of an accident. A good out-of-the-way spot is at the back of the engine where the oil gauge flex hose is attached to the head.
Here I used a nipple and a tee to fit everything in place. I sealed all the threads with Permatex airplane engine quality sealant.
Fitting of the R1 style air cleaner. Sadly it was taken from my wrecked Avanti 63R1630 – another one lost.