Trans throttle control linkage painted and installed – except for the cotter pin on the front of the TTC extender. I decided to pop rivet the TTC yoke to the extender for better clearance. I flattened the rivet on the opposite side. We’ll see just how good it works when it’s time to adjust the trans pressure and later when I test the kickdown from 3rd to 2nd.
The four PS hoses installed on the control valve. The pressure hose and the return hose have U-bends at the control valve, but the manual shows straight leads to and from the PS pump ??? Should work fine anyway as I will need to put a loop in all the pipes to allow the control valve to move back and forth freely.
The AC pump pulley arrived from Stephen Allen’s. Another problem – the PS pump belt rubs against the back of the AC fan pulley. I will need to make up a 1/8″ spacer to move the AC fan pulley forward. When done this will actually line it up better with the outer crank pulley. My crank pulley setup isn’t as it was set up from Studebaker. I just added an extra pulley for the PS and the AC. So now I need to line everything up.
I could have gone to a machine shop and had the spacer made, but this is a budget project and time is not an issue. I had a piece of 1/8″ steel that was just right. I laid the fan pulley on the steel and made center punched a spot about the center of the middle hole that slips over the water pump flange. I used my old high school dividers to make the center circle. I then used the pulley again to mark the mounting holes and center punch each one. This is what it looked like after drilling.
I only had a 1″ drill bit and the flange is 1-1/16″. So after a bit of work using a fine grinding burr it fit the water pump nicely.
I rough cut off the excess steel and then mounted it to a fan spacer. I’ll use this as a guide as I grind off the excess metal.
After grinding and fitted to the water pump. Still enough flange to hold the AC pulley and I’ve changed the water pump pulley screws to stainless and a bit longer. This spacer will allow my PS belt to clear the back of the AC fan pulley.
My stainless muffler from Silvertone has 2″ inlet and outlets. The Studebaker pipes from the engine to the muffler are also 2″, but the tail pipe is 1-3/4″. I couldn’t find a Studebaker Lark tailpipe any larger for some reason. I could have new pipes made up from 2″ stock, but I’ll use the original Stude parts for the start. So now I needed to adapt the muffler to the smaller tail pipe. I bought two adapters, but I realized that the added length would likely be a problem as the tail pipes have a welded mounting tab at the back which needs to line up with the frame. The adapter is abt 6″ long and in the end it would likely extend things by 1″-3″. So I opted to use the adapters to make a collars to fit the tailpipes into the end of the muffler output pipes. First I cut off the 2″ OD ends.
Next I expanded the tailpipe some to better fit the inside of the collar which is abt 2-13/16″ ID. The tail pipe wall thickness is 1/16″. This I was able to expand fairly easily with the pipe expander. However at one point I tried expanding the adapter pipes small end. The adapter wall thickness is 3/32″ Not much thicker than the tailpipe, but the expander wanted to strip its end nut from the pressure. Mind you this is a cheap Chinese unit from Princess Auto and not a professional quality tool.
The collar fits easily over the tailpipe and inside the muffler outlet. The muffler clamp at the back of the muffler that also clips onto the rear hanger should squeeze everything together. I will cut a narrow slot in the muffler outlet pipe and I think I will cut a slot in the full length of the collar to make sure all is tight. The slots will only be the width of a hacksaw blade.