Belts, fuel lines and hoses

Here the AC drive belt has been installed. A Stude friend gave me an old very long fan belt which I cut, wrapped around the pulleys and then marked. With the tensioner adjusted out a bit the length came to 52″. I also picked up a 53″ belt just in case. In the end the 53″ turned out best leaving me enough to easily go over the pulleys and still leave lots of adjustment room for the tensioner.

With the belts in place and the heater hoses test fitted, I then found a good spot to feed the gas line to the carb. I opted to put a second filter in the line to catch any debris from the original line which still runs back along the frame.

I used nickle copper 5/16″ line as it is so much easier to bend. A 25″ coil of this line is very expensive so I opted to buy a 7′ brake line of the same material for a whole lot less. Does a nice job and the brake line fitting fits the carb as well. Looking at this photo I see I need to hook up the choke heater line.

This is the inside of the frame rail on the right side. It is just below where the exhaust hanger bracket normally fits. I’ll mount the electric fuel pump here. It is about even with the bottom of the gas tank.

Beware of new 3/4″ heater hose. The wall thickness seems thinner and the pipe itself is quite soft. It won’t take corners well at all. Here is where the hoses need to go to connect up the heater. The firewall holes are right behind the heater motor and the pipes have to squeeze by. Sharp upwards bends are needed to connect to the heater core and climitizer valve. There was no way I could get the upper hose to connect to the core without the new pipe collapsing. I happen to have an old NOS heater hose with a 90 deg bend. I fitted itwith a used a length of 3/4″ brass pipe and a short piece of the new heater hose to reach the core. Kind of busy with all the gear clamps, but at least it’s out of sight. The lower hose is the new type and I was able to just make it fit, but with one spot where it is starting to kink.

I used yet another gear clamp over the kink spot to bring the hose back to round. Not very elegant, but hopefully it will work OK when the hot water starts to pass through.

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