Before moving on it was time to reroute the wiring under the PS ram. I originally was thinking of attaching it to the underside of the fan shroud but, that would have been a problem since I had to remove a section of the lower shroud to allow free movement of the ram end/bellcrank arm.
Seeing where the ram finally fitted I was able to squeeze the wiring bundle behind it and along the front of the crossmember which is where it originally sat. One cable tie and all was secure. The wiring bundle is there because I removed the wiring junction block and its numerous wires from the top of the fan shroud.
I had to remove a bit more of the shroud than I had marked out in the last post. Now the ram end moves freely back and forth. I may try to find a shroud from a later Hawk that used the Bendix PS system. But that’s a project for another day.
This shot of the upper A arms shows a significant difference in how far the bushings went into the A arm. We used a large press with a piece pipe cut in half and fitted to hold the A arms apart as per the shop manual. When the bushings snugged up against the cross rod it was not in the center. If I had to do it again I’d insert something under the bushing lip to limit how far the bushing moved inward. That way the bushing would be in an equal amount and the cross shafts would be centered. Unfortunately with the bushings as they are it will cause the king pin to lean towards the front – negative caster. Not good when some positive caster is needed to get the steering wheel to return to center when coming out of corners. My hope is that there will be enough adjustment at the top of the king pin to make up for this. Also, when I assemble everything I’ll try to move the lower king pin knuckle to the front a bit to help compensate.
I have a theory about this problem and it has to do with NORS parts that may have been made in China. When we installed the bushings in the Lower A arm we used NOS Studebaker original parts I had on hand. These bushings have a definite shoulder which buts up to the A arm and stops any further movement. I had to buy new upper A arm bushings and their shoulder was much less defined. More of a ramp. So the bushing with the least resistance moved in the furthest – it’s a wonder that the A arm didn’t split!
I just found a set of old NOS bushings for the upper inner A arms. You can see a definite shoulder that is about 1/4″ down from the lip on the left. This is what the NOS lower inner bushings looked like and I had no problem with them going in too far. The NORS items I installed had a gradual slope up towards the lip instead of this shoulder. SO BEWARE when installing NORS bushings. If they don’t have a clear shoulder then you will need to use a spacer under the lip to keep one bushing from going in too far and causing the cross shaft to be off center.