Installation wrap-up

Time to install the wheel bearings. I scraped and cleaned the bottoming surface for the bearing cup – that’s the first lip down the hole.

This is a handy tool for fine cleaning. Recognize it?  It’s a dental scraper.  You can buy automotive scrapers like this but, I prefer to get them for free.  Each time I go to the dentist’s I ask for used scrapers.  They usually have a batch lying around.  My dentist actually has others besides me who ask for these neat tools.

Talking about specialty tools – I know there are proper jigs to install bearings.  I just have never gotten around to buying a set.  Maybe for next time.  I like to use a hardwood block and a moderate sized hammer.  The trick is to keep the bearing going in squarely and not allowing it to tip too much.  Once it gets going straight it seems to slip in easy enough – at least until the wood block hits the casting.

To finish seating the cup I use an old cup.  I have already ground off a skim from the outer surface on the grinding wheel so that it won’t seize inside the casting as it pushes the new cup home.

Seating the new cup with an old cup.

Same story for the outer cup. Here the old cup is about to seat the new cup.

Time to grease the new cones.  I used to do it by hand and it was always slow and messy.  I finally bought this little tool and I’m very happy with it.

You just slip the cone over the stem and then spin the top half down until it is snug on the bearing.  Put a tube of wheel bearing lube in the grease  gun and…

A few pumps and presto the grease squirts out the bottom of the cone.

The extra grease I smear around the cup.

The cone in place and extra lube applied.  I did miss a photo of the grease seal going in place unfortunately.  I used the same block of hardwood in the same manner as I did  with the new cups, being careful that it went in square.

Some extra grease to smear around on the outer cup.

Outer cone, washer and nut ready to be installed.

A smear of grease for the spindle. Especially on the inside to help the seal slip onto it’s sealing surface.

Drum fitted, outer cone and washer in place ready for the castle nut.

Just about done.  I followed the Studebaker service manual’s procedure for tightening the nut.  Tighten until the bearings are binding on the hub then back off 1/6 of a turn or back to where the cotter pin can be fitted.  I like to put cotter pins in backwards so that they are easier to remove later if needed – and they often are!

Final install on the front end. Power steering, bigger sway bar with better mounts, new front end components and now new 11″ brakes in place.

Oh yes, here’s my plastic sheet cut up into 4 equal pieces of approximately 7-1/2″ X 13 1/3″

Next I will have to set the Champion down and torque the inner A arm clamping studs top and bottom.  From there I’ll need to set the alignment good enough to drive to the alignment shop.


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