Short search

Easier to remove the console side panels and work under the dash with the seat out. Easy-peasy with only four bolts to remove.

The short caused the courtesy lights to flash through the anti-theft flasher and then burn out the fuse. I removed the flasher and the anti-theft relay under the console. With them removed the problem was bypassed and the courtesy lights worked without burning out the fuse. Still don’t know where the shorting problem lies.

I used shrink-wrap to isolate all the anti-theft relay leads. I plan to remove all the anti-theft components, but leave the wiring in place.

Dash removal wasn’t too difficult. It was easier with the steering wheel off and would have been even easier if I could have lowered the steering column, but it didn’t want to lower when I loosened the dash mounting bolts.

I need to replace the tach circuit board so it was also a good time to replace all the dash light – some weren’t working – with new LED bulbs. I tested the led bulbs and they do dim with a reduction in voltage. A bit tricky putting them in the dash since they only work one way being diodes. I had to run 12 volts through each bulb’s circuit to be sure they lit properly.

The new tach circuit board comes with three insulating washers, but no instructions on where to use them. I’m assuming on the metal back of the tach to isolate the circuit board – the new board’s contact points are on both sides of the board.

Dash out and easier to get at the headlight and wiper switchs for testing.

Switches out and now the testing can begin to find why the dash lights aren’t working. I don’t think the short is in the dash light circuit as the anti-theft horn relay, etc are all under the courtesy light fuse.

With the dash out it’s a good time to give the speedometer cable a good coating of graphite. The needle had been a bit bouncy.

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