Now the fun part begins

The engine is again back on the engine stand. The final block cleaning job will be honing out the cylinders to remove the surface rust residue and give them a nice cross hatch pattern.

I went to pickup some new hones and they only had 4″ units.  My originals were 3″ only.  These are medium stones and I decided to go ahead.  I figured I could just turn the pressure adjusting screw up a bit and that would make up for the extra surface area.

This is typical of what the cylinders looked like after I had run the 3″ stones through them a few times.

I oiled the hones each time with engine oil and also ran oil around the cylinder.

Between each run I put the hone through warm soapy water.  Not sure how much good it did since I was using engine oil which tended to stick to the stones anyway.  So I wiped each stone and applied clean oil.  I also wiped each cylinder each time and re-oiled it as well.

My bore measuring tool read right around .040 oversize before I started.

It took a number of turns with the hone to reach this point.  Each time I ran the hone through 40 cycles.  If this had been a newly bored block I imagine one run of 30 cycles would have done a nice job.

Not noticeable in this photo is tiny dark grey spotting on all the cylinders.  This I imagine is some deeper corrosion.  My hope is that most of that will be removed as the rings seat into the cylinders.

I used my drill on low speed and pulled the hone back and forth very quickly.  Not sure if this is the preferred 45 deg. cross hatch, but it’s going to have to do.  Hopefully the cast iron rings will be able to seat satisfactorily.

This is not going to be a race engine nor will it be a high mileage engine.  I’m shooting for a smooth running dependable engine that has better than stock get up and go.  It will be driven on highways the majority of the time and I don’t expect to put more than 30,000 miles on it.

Same cylinder after the hone job.  It is showing a little under .001 over the .040 bore size.  This had me a bit concerned for awhile.

My measuring tools are good, but I may not be using them properly.  At least that’s what I was thinking.  A better test might be using a .004 feeler gauge as per the Studebaker manual.  This is the position of the piston and the feeler should be in the top or bottom.  They give an inch pound rate for pulling the feeler gauge out from between the piston and the cylinder wall.  I don’t have a puller gauge, but even with the cylinder and piston oiled it took a significant pull to get the gauge out.  I’ll assume all is OK and time to move on to the next step.

Next a little piston work before I test the crank with new bearings.

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