Graham's Corvette Blog and Studebaker bits 'n' bobs

Getting the console back in place. I’ll start the engine and check the controls once again to be sure all is good. I’ll then re-install the side covers.

Meanwhile the AC vent on the right side has lost its mounting ears. I looked online for a replacement, but no luck.

A fix until I can find a better one. I made up a couple of brackets and mounted them in the same slanted position as the original ears. I bolted them to the duct with small bolts and drilled them to take the mounting screws.

Finally got it in place without removing the dash! A real hard spot to work in especially on the outside ear. I tried to get the screw in using a mirror, but that didn’t work – maybe if I was a dental hygienist and was used to working with mirrors in tight places. In the end I was just able to get my head under enough to see the mounting hole and get the screw in place.

I started the engine and all seemed good with the heater controls. The side panels are now in place with a new cup holder. Once the horn parts arrive I’ll be putting the steering wheel back on and installing the seats.

Next chore is to check to see if the steering box is on the high spot when the steering wheel is straight ahead. I need to do this to be sure the steering wheel is in the right place on the steering shaft before I take it in for an alignment.

Bound to happen sooner or later; the snap fitting broke when I was disassembling the vacuum diverter attached to the heater/AC switch, fortunately there was enough space to install a small nut, washer and bolt.

Here I have the diverter and connecting plug back on the back of the heater switch. While still apart I tested each dirverter line with a brake bleeder vacuum pump and using the service manual to tell me which vacuum operated door should be open.

I was able to visually check every door except the AC door which is buried behind the gauge cluster and the water shut-off valve as it was toast. Here is the outside air valve located on the right side below the windshield and under the fender lip. The screen has been removed. I’ll add rust check to the assembly before re-installing the screen.

The rear window defroster fan and heat/AC controls back in the console. I will replace the console and then get the engine started so I can do a final test on the controls except for the water shut-off valve which is on order.

The heater/AC fan wasn’t working right. Getting at the switch to test it was impossible without removing the console cover. That’s easier if I remove the seat. Work seems to take two steps forward and then one back!

This is the switch to control the fan based on the setting on the heater/AC sliding switch. Fortunately it can be opened up and cleaned. It was coated in old stiff grease. I cleaned it up with electrical connector aerosol fluid and coated the contacts with dielectric grease.

This is the fan switch disassembled. A bit hard to see. There are four tangs holding the switch together. I bend them back just enough to open it up. It was also coated in old stiff grease. Cleaned and coated with dielectric grease and re-assembled.

These type of mechanical switches have been in use since the 1950s. They are not hard to get apart and can be cleaned and put back in use. The contacts are usually copper and so there is no corrosion.

The fan now works as it should. Now to test out the vacuum lines for the heat, vent, defrost and AC.

After checking the horn relay I attached a working horn. As soon as I turned on the power the horn started to blare. Some where the horn is getting grounded. Time to check the horn mechanisms in the steering column.

The steering wheel and upper horn parts (grounding mechanism) came off easily.

This is what is underneath. The gold contacts are for the horn. The big spring under the steering wheel is grounding the horn. According to the parts book there should be a horn contact retainer covering the contacts.

This is the retainer. I”m not sure how it all works, but I’ve got one on order.

In the meantime I made up a tool (U shaped item) to remove the clip holding the telescoping section of the steering column and the horn contact plate and retainer. I did this so I could clean up the backside of the horn contact plate and in the future to add cruise and a new ignition switch. The narrow locking rod is used to jam the shaped key against the key slot. This same mechanism allows the telescoping column to hold its position. The screw at the top right pushes the rod against the key which allows steering nut to push the U tool down compressing the lower spring in the steering column allowing the C shaped key to be removed.

The large C clip in place

The tool in place. The star nut has to be run in to lock the telescope section of the steering shaft before the U tool can be used to press down on the plate to release the C clip. The regular steering column nut is used to push the U tool down on the plate.

Next – redoing the valve lifter adjustment and work on the heater/AC controls.

Time to replace the coil to see if it is the cause of the miss.

The signal lights weren’t working properly. I took the opportunity to swap the old 1157 bulbs for LED units. Very bright indeed. I pulled and bench tested the flasher and it turned out to be the problem. A simple fix. It doesn’t ‘click’ very loud and it flashes quickly – likely because of the LED units. I’ll try to find a flasher that is louder.

In the meantime the horn needs attention. Starting with the horns themselves I tested them to make sure they were still working. They aren’t. Dead as a nit!

New coil from Carquest for about $45. Installed it and started the engine. I’m hearing valve lifter clicking – that should not be with hydraulic lifters. So I introduced a problem when I adjusted the valves. Engine still rough and maybe now because of an improperly adjusted valve lifters. I did manage to set the timing to its correct 6 degrees BTC. It is showing about 26 with the vacuum advance connected and 35 at about 1000 rpm which is a bit high. More checking on this later. Time to do the valves again – very carefully.

Before going for a test run I started the engine to make sure there were no major leaks. I also checked the timing. It’s running about 8 degrees of advance. Should be 6 degrees. When I went to loosen the distributor hold-down tab I found the 9/16″ bolt to be rusted.

I tried to loosen it with a 12 point wrench, but it tried to slip. So I borrowed a 6 point wrench from a friend and is came off fine with that.

I cleaned everything off using a wire wheel and I’m using the same bolt with a shake proof washer and anti-seize on the threads. Should come off easily even with a 12 point wrench.

On the test drive. Two bugs and a couple of pluses showed up. A bad leak at the right valve cover. That was simple enough as I didn’t tighten the bolts enough.

The second was a miss in the engine firing.

On the plus side the oil pressure was up to at least 35 lbs when hot at speed. Also, the new tires ran smooth – good balancing job.

I suspected that one plug would show oily deposits from not firing. But that wasn’t the case. All plugs seemed to be firing OK. So the misfire is random. That should mean that the new wires, cap and rotor should also be OK. Next item up the line is the coil.

The coil doesn’t look to be new and may be the original. That’s an easy item to replace and eliminate from the possible causes.

Just to be sure that one lifter and valve aren’t the problem I decided to re-set valves. A job that needed to be done anyhow. Using the service manual I located top dead centre for #1 cylinder and adjusted the eight valves noted then turned the engine one full turn and adjusted the other 8.

I replaced the valve covers with stainless bolts, shake-proof washers and reinforcing arms.

I don’t use a ratchet to tighten the valve cover screws. This driver does the job. Tight as I can get is likely less than the spec for those bolts. I”m hoping the reinforcing bars will help to keep oil from weeping past the gaskets.

Oil and antifreeze added, brakes bled and tires back on.

I have a leaking PS control valve. About 3/4 of a cup of oil leaked out over a couple of months in the garage. I kept a pan in place to see how bad it was. Not good. Also, the fluid is not clear but red. Someone likely filled it with automatic trans fluid.

This will be the first system to get at after the driving season is over in November when the first salt appears on our roads.

I put the same amount of PS fluid back into the pump and when I checked the level it was up to the cold level mark.

Now for its first test drive since replacing the starter, wires, heater hoses, pcv valve, breather and valve covers.

I pulled and cleaned the valve covers when I replaced the leaking gaskets. But they really need a lot of work.

Instead of going to all the trouble of cleaning and painting I went with an inexpensive set of chrome covers plus a new PVC valve, chrome breather and a chrome oil cap. The start of the process of cleaning up the engine.

I needed to replace the heater hoses and I’m glad I bought a correct set with formed 90 degree bends. Made for a nice tight fit at the top and bottom.

I’ll be adding STP to the oil to hopefully improve oil pressure. It was running about 20 lbs when hot. I’d like it to be around 40 when hot and at speed. The High Mileage oil likely contains ZDDP as does the STP. So that should help against the lifter/cam contact wear.

I’ll also be adding this to the gas for a couple of tanks at least. I’m hoping my low compression in #1 and #8 is due to sticking compression rings. This product is supposed to lubricate the compression rings and that might loosen them up if they are indeed stuck.

New parking brake cover in place and shift knob and button kit installed.

Time to remove the carpet from the old wallboard backing and install it on new correct backing boards.

New backing board test fitted. The boards are made from pressed wood (?) fibre and fairly rugged.

In my case the backing board mounting holes were a bit off on the passenger side. I needed to punch new holes in all three locations. I had earlier replaced the plastic inserts that receive the board screws.

I used this heavy duty Lepage contact cement to attach the old carpet to the new panels. Once stuck onto the backing I put weights on the backing to keep on some pressure to help the glue to stick.

The backing boards are a little below the groves in the console and parking brake cover. The carpet is mounted a little above the backing boards and the extra carpet is tucked in the groves. The gaps in the carpet are hidden by the seat. A new carpet set would fit nicer I would hope, but that’s down the road a bit.

Time to get the seats back in. I prefer to be a little less reclined when driving so I fashioned blocks from square steel tubing. They are 1″ square with holes to take longer mounting bolts. I may increase them to 2″. If I do I’ll need to fashion wedges for the front mounting points so as not to bend the seat tracks.

Drivers seat back in place. Seems OK, but driving will be the final test for the lift blocks.

I won’t be putting the right side carpet panel and seat in place until I get an antenna extension cable that’s on order. I can only access the radio antenna connection with the seat and panel removed.

Next I’ll be bleeding the front brakes and getting the engine ready for starting.

I pulled the radio in hopes of finding a schematic diagram and happily one was still attached and readable. I attached an old speaker and an antenna to test it out. If it didn’t test out I would replace it. It is a Craig cassette which really fits the period. Fortunately it works fine. I powered the radio for the test using and old radio tube and power supply unit. It can supply 6 or 12 volts which is very handy for bench work. You can probably find them on local buy and sell sites.

The existing connections were all twisted wires with solder and wrapped in electrical tape. Works fine, but I’d rather a cleaner look.

Using the radio schematic I re-did all the connections and added labels for future reference.

One hitch in the works was power for the radio memory. Not something necessary with the period push button radios. I don’t like to leave the battery connected when the car isn’t in use, which is a lot of the time, so I installed a battery disconnect switch. The problem is that once the battery is disconnected the radio looses its memory. To overcome this I have added a battery disconnect bypass with a 7.5 amp fuse. With the ignition off the power point(lighter) is alive. So I attached the memory lead to the power point lead. Now it will get power when the battery is disconnected and if a short happens the bypass fuse will blow quickly

Radio back in place. Now I can move along with the replacement of the console. I’m heading out today to see if I can find some good music cassettes from the local thrift shop. 70’s music is OK by me 🙂