Engine transfer

Before I get started on the engine transfer, here’s a piece of junk I bought from a national auto and mechanical parts, etc supplier who gets most of its stuff from China. The bins began to break away from the back almost right away – and especially in colder temperatures. I guess it was really meant to store chocolates or marshmallows and maybe gummy bears!

A friend in our car club showed me a shelf he made with re-purposed milk cartons. I thought it was a good idea. So I collected up a wack of empty milk cartons each with a large oval cut out of the front side. I then made up a shelf out of 2X6″ project wood I had lying around. The shelves are out of 1X4″. And voila I have and excellent place to store all my different kinds of nails, etc. I wrote what the bin contained on the white carton top.

Now on with the engine transfer. I moved out our ’54 Studebaker Champion to make room to move around. I then pulled out the folding engine hoist. The engine hoist and engine stand I should say came from the vendor mentioned above. Not professional quality, but good for the hobbiest – also made in China.

The engine hoist assembled and the hoist tackle in place. I bolted the hoist tackle to the 4 intake manifold end screw holes.

I lowered the engine so that the mounts just rested on the two uprights. I then aligned the engine so it was lined up with the stand and marked the uprights through the motor mount holes.

I predrilled the uprights where they were marked and started lag screws in the holes. I did this so I could easily start them with the engine in place. Those are body washers – large but with small holes.

This is the setup to hold the back of the engine. The uprights are trimmed to 1/2″ so they fit inside the pan lip and up against the pan bolts.

Resting nicely on the stand. Now I can fit the bellhousing, torque converter and trans. I intend to install it all as a unit. I’ll need to remove all the front end metal between the fenders including the radiator support. It will be much easier than trying to wrestle the trans into place under the car which will only be as high as the jack stands can take it.

But first it is time to dial in the bell housing.

Power Steering Pump completion

The never ending painting goes on. PS pump and parts on the left, PS reach rod, R1 pan breather tube w/dipstick tube, PS bellcrank, PS ram frame mount and breather tube support.

Installing the pump brackets. Surprisingly there are no lock washers for the pump bolts. They are all course thread as well. So I assembled with a bit of blue Loctite.

Brackets installed and bolts tightened to 25 ft. lbs.

New O ring gaskets over the two openings under the reservoir tank. I did touch up the bolts heads in black before mounting the pulley.

Reservoir installed with the large nut torqued to 35 ft lbs. I use an inch pound torque wrench so I convert the specs to inch pounds – 35 ft lbs equals 420 inch lbs. I like using the smaller torque wrench for lower torques as I feel it’s more accurate than my ft lb wrench.

I installed the cover stud with double nuts. the torque is quite low so I just hand tightened with a short wrench. I figure I’m pulling about 12 ft lbs on a short wrench by hand and with moderate force.

Thought it might look a bit nicer two-toned rather than just all black like the engine block. I used Rust-Oleum silver wheel paint. Goes on nice and it has a lot of metal flake in it. One thing I would do differently next time – I painted the parts in primer by brush thinking I was going to go with brush painted satin black. The final coats of silver would have been a bit smoother had I primed with a spray bomb.

On the engine with a new belt.

After installing the pump I rigged up a connection between the high pressure outlet and the low pressure return using a bit of hose and the old high pressure fitting cut from the old hose.

This allowed me to flood the pump with fluid to keep it in good shape until it’s brought into service which will be some months away. I spun the pump a few times and the fluid pumped back up into the reservoir.

Now it really is time to get the engine off the engine stand and onto its dolly.

Power Steering Pump assembly

A little blurry. I’ve started the new pump seal in place by hand and with a little tap using a piece of wood to get it started straight.

There are times when I could use a shop bench press. Here the housing and seal are in my bench vice which works good as a press for small jobs.

Seal evenly seated. Sweet!

The shaft looks real good except for the area where the new seal will seat. You can just make out where the old seal ran on the shaft.

A little run around with a piece of 1500 sand paper followed by crocus cloth (using a wide shoe lace) and the shaft is nice a smooth for the new seal.

Here the smaller pin is in place to hold the pump outer cam ring from turning.

Type F automatic trans fluid is what I’ll use in the pump. I built a pump for my ’54 Champion and I used regular power steering fluid by mistake. In an earlier blog I showed a photo of the pump reservoir filled with pink foam. I had to drain the system (not a fun job) and refill with ATF. I used type F because I was also using it in my ’66 Flight-O-Matic. Seems to work fine. The folks on the Studebaker forum recommend other types of ATF if you can’t get Type F for Fords.

The instructions with the kit and in the shop service manual instruct the builder to be careful when installing the pump shaft so as not to damage the seal. With that sharp lip on the shaft there is no way to push it through from inside without damaging the seal.

It can be easily pushed in from the outside without seal damage.

I did install the pump outer cam ahead of time. Here I have fitted the larger pin into the slot in the pump shaft for the inner part of the pump. I tried to use ATF in the assembly process, but it didn’t work all that well. Although the ATF is an oil it isn’t a slippery lubricant. In fact, it seems to resist putting together tight fitting parts like the pump cam in the pump body. I ended up wiping it off to get part to fit. So if I was to do it again I would do the job dry and just flood the pump once it is together.

The inner pump rotor slipped into place over the recessed pin in the shaft quite easily and then I put the new rollers in place. The big and small ‘O’ rings are in place with a coating of ATF.

I put together the two pump halves and snugged it up with three bolts. I will do the final torque when I attach the two mounting plates. Here the pump flow control valve and spring is just going in. I torqued the nut with the a O ring to the recommended 35 ft lbs.

All cleaned up, sanded, and ready for painting.

Next, getting the engine mounted on the dolly.

Power Steering pump disassembly and cleaning

New seal kit and pump kit.

Everything came apart easily except for the seal. I used a long drift and small hammer. It finally broke loose – see the raised lip – and then it came off easily.

The old pump parts looked really good so I wasn’t sure I needed the new kit. Just in case I got out my good calipers and checked the rollers. Turns out the old one on the right is about .003 smaller than the new one.

The new kit is on the left and the rollers are slightly further down in the used unit. So I decided to go with the new kit.

Time to give all the parts a good cleaning and then a blow dry with the air hose.

All cleaned up and blow dried.

I tipped up the spool valve to show a small bleeder hole. Behind it is a check ball and a strong spring. The air gun was able to blow out the cleaning fluid OK. Also there are holes in the side which can be used to blow out the fluid around the spring.

On the bottom right is a (blurry) snap ring and two tiny round cylinders. Easy to loose the small one. It fits inside the pump barrel and holds the pump cam in place. The other fits in the shaft to hold the pump gear in place.

One thing the kits don’t include are new bushings for both halves of the housing. The shaft is just shiny and I can’t see much in the way of wear so hopefully the old bushings will last for awhile yet.

Next I’ll attempt the assembly in the correct order!

Bits & pieces engine stand

I need an engine dolly so that I can access the back of the engine to install and dial in the bell housing. The block and bell housing are not a matched set from the factory so a dial in needs to be done to ensure that the transmission is directly in line with the crankshaft. If it isn’t the trans will destroy the engine-to-trans flex plate in short order.

These are most of the pieces needed to make up an engine dolly. Just some old project wood lying around, four used 4″ dolly wheels and some decking screws.

I used the edge of the floor mat in front of my work bench as a straight line to start from. The cross pieces on the bottom will hold the dolly wheels. They are each 26″ long. the two top rails are each 33″ long and are exactly 20″ apart measuring from the outside edge of one to the outside edge of the other. Using a tape measure and square I got everything lined up pretty close. I used a miter saw to cut the wood. That way I got good straight edges and uniform lengths. When all was square I put one screw through each top and bottom board – rechecked the measurements and squareness – then put two more screws in each corner.

Next I flipped the base over and started putting on the dolly wheels. I needed some big screws with large heads to hold down the four wheel bracket corners.

I’m putting the brackets right to the edge of the boards. To prevent splitting I pre-drilled for each screw. This piece of wood came from our old farm house when we did some remodeling. It is likely close to 100 years old and super dry and hard. Even with pre-drilling the wood was close to splitting.

Dolly wheels installed. I used two locking wheels on opposite corners to hold the engine from moving if I needed to.

Time to put the uprights in place. These will be mounting spots for the engine’s front mounting brackets. They are 4X4 pieces. The tops are 2″ wide with the rest shaved away at a 45 deg. angle. I needed a couple of pieces of wood for gussets to help hold the uprights in place. I also have a short piece of wood to join the two uprights. The uprights are mounted on the top 2X4 pieces and are kept exactly 20″ apart (outside edges)

Uprights in place with gussets and one long deck screw on the inside of each. The cross piece is 8″ below the top to make sure the front the of pan will not hit.

The rear cross piece and uprights will be fitted once the engine is resting on the front uprights and still being held up with the engine hoist. The rear uprights will fit along the pan lip near the rear of the engine. I will taper the tops of the uprights so that they fit inside the pan lip and rest on the pan bolt heads.

Next, moving the engine from the engine stand to the dolly.

Getting it right

The 5/16″ spacer in front and the correctly machined 3/8″ spacer behind. Big difference.

A little flat filing front and back to remove the machining lumps from clamping the aluminum too much. The machinist didn’t believe me when I said it was aluminum!

Pulley alignment looks a whole lot better.

The straight edge test proved the alignment to be pretty well spot on. The slight gap at the top disappeared when I test fitted the exhaust manifold-to-pump bracket.

Lower pulley and fan pulley in place. Still need final paint on the lower pulley. I will need to turn the engine some to align the bell housing so I’ll hold off on the paint until that is done.

The PS pump kit should arrive any day now. So that will be the next job.

PS pump test fit

First I needed to get a donor PS pump ready. I wasn’t going to test install a greasy, dirty used pump on my nice newly painted engine! Also pictured are a used PS reach rod, ram frame bracket and the pump bracket that attaches to front exhaust manifold screw.

Parts all nicely cleaned up. I will do a pump rebuild later and sandblast/clean and paint. For now I’ll just re-assemble for my alignment check.

Pump fitted and belted to the front crank pulley. I made sure the pump was in the correct position with all the flat washers in place (next to the manifold ) on the pump adjusting arm and lower pump mounting studs. But there are problems.

The crank pulley is pulling back on the belt. It needs to come out some. Another check of the parts book shows a special pulley for the Jet Thrust engines. The one I’m using (#533890) for standard V8s is different from the proper one #1557898. I checked with a few online Studebaker vendors for one, but no luck.

Regular Stude V8 engines used a spacer (#534294) behind the PS pulley to line up with the PS pump. I happen to have a used one so I put it on to see how things would look.

Now the crank pulley is too far forward. OK, I can work with this.

I held a straight edge across the lower pulley and checked the alignment difference with the PS pulley. The gap you see was about 3/16″. If I remove that much from the crank pulley spacer Then the pulley’s should line up nicely.

I’ll have to send the pulley out to be shaved before I can continue with the install of the intake and PS pump.

Here’s the cut down crank pulley. I put it on the engine but it didn’t line up. Somehow the machinist and me got our wires crossed. Instead of removing 3/16″ he cut the pulley back to 3/16″ so now it is too thin! As luck would have it I have another so I will take it out and have it done along with a rebuild of two king pins for the front end work I’ll be doing during the engine swap.

In the meantime the never-ending cleaning, sanding and painting goes on!

Water pump & manifold install

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Tools for the job. Scraper to remove any paint on the edges of the gasket surfaces, paint thinner to clear off any oil, alignment studs, Perfect seal for the gaskets and thread sealant for the screws. And of course, an inch pound torque wrench.

Alignment studs in place. I needed a shorty on the lower left side of the block so that the manifold could clear the fuel pump housing boss.

I was able to coat the lower gaskets and stick them to the manifold.

But the upper gaskets are a thinner paper and wouldn’t stick. They did stick OK to the engine when helped by the alignment studs.

Water pump and manifold in place. All screws torqued to 200 in lbs including the two PS mounting studs in the top right of the photo.

Next I’ll have a go at test fitting a PS pump.