The original JT1841 intake Manifold. Rust on the some of the runners and crud under the carb.
Sand blasting, scraping with dental picks, cleanout with wire brushes in the parts washer and a high pressure blow out.
This air cleaner is from a wrecked ’63 Avanti. If I use this I should be able to get a 1″ spacer under the carb which was suggested by Jim Pepper, to help the fuel get around the tight bends. I actually owned the Avanti that donated the air cleaner.
I won it as a prize in the Keystone Chapter annual car draw in 2002. I did a lot of work on it and sold it in 2014. It looked good and ran well. The new owner only had it a year or two and was rear ended and rolled. The roll bar saved him, but he did break a leg and lost teeth to the steering wheel.
A sad wreck. This is it sitting in the back yard of a fellow club member who bought it for parts for his ’64 R2.
There is probably a tool to remove this rear seal, but I don’t have it or any puller that can do the job.
Ended up driving a hole it in and collapsing the ring enough to fall out. The housing is aluminum so I was a bit concerned about damaging the sealing surface.
In the end it seal came out with no damage to the sealing surface.
Again there are seal seating tools, but I have never gotten around to buying a set. I just use light hammer taps from side to side with a hardwood block.
Seal in and ready to go
It was easier to re & re the front input shaft seal. As you can see it has an exposed lip. A few taps with a small chisel on this lip and the seal popped out. New one in place.
Trans is now ready to be installed. Now if only the torque converts shop would get mine finished. I gave them a new ring gear and two torque converters. They couldn’t remove the ring gear on the old torque converter without damaging the unit. I”m hopeful they will be able to build one good converter out of the two I gave them! This is likely the first Studebaker torque converter they have come across.
Before installing new gaskets I cleaned off the surfaces with some brake clean on a rag to remove any oil and grease.
I’m adding hi-temp silicone gasket cement to both sides of the gaskets so I wanted the surfaces to be completely free of oil and grease.
The cut off single use brush gave a nice thin even coating to the gaskets. I also used it on the pan gasket. In the end I had an accident with the cork pan gasket, but fortunately I had a new Fel-Pro gasket on hand. The Fel-Pro number is TOS 18106. It should be available from local parts stores as it is used in a number of older vehicles including Studebakers
Fel-Pro didn’t recommend using any sealants, but there was some unevenness in the pan flange so I wanted to be sure of the best seal, so again I applied a thin coating of silicone. I snugged all the bolts and screws down just hand tight and left them for 24 hours for the silicone to set well. I then torqued them all down to spec. I used the minimum torque amount with the thought that I can always re-torque later if there is any sight of a leak.
Time to adjust the front and rear bands. This is a small inch pound torque wrench that I borrowed from a fellow Studebaker driver. This is odd setup to adjust the rear band It has a small square head.
I adapted a 3/8″ drive socket to the torque wrench to do the job. It was a bit loose, but I only needed to wrench it to 10 inch pounds. I backed off the lock nut and adjuster and then tightened the adjuster to 10 inch pounds. I then backed off the adjuster 1 and a 1/4 turns and tightened up the lock nut.
To do the front band I loosed off the lock nut and adjuster and slipped a piece of 1/4″ steel between the adjuster and the servo piston pin. I then tightened the adjuster to 10 inch pounds, tightened the lock nut and removed the 1/4″ spacer. I was surprised how much holding power there was in 10 in lbs. I had to pry the spacer out.
A bit of a clean up. Didn’t want to mount a cruddy trans behind the new engine. I may paint up the pan as it is plain steel, but the cast iron body and aluminum tail shaft should be just fine as is.
The ’65 and ’66 transmission carb control links are set according to trans pressure at 2000 rpm. According to the service manual for these transmissions (and the number on it matches the service manual) there should be a plug to take pressure measurements where the X is located.l
There is a likely looking plug at the back of the trans. This location would be a problem as the extra cross member for the 283 to mount the trans sits right in front of the plug. It won’t be an issue with the Stude engine. I will be sending an email to the Cooperator panel in Turning Wheels to get their take on it.
The trans when removed was a good working unit so all I intend to do is remove the pan and adjust the front band, replace the front and rear seals, the governor cover seal and adjust the rear band. I will check the pan for metal that might show that the clutches need replacing.
BTW – if you are in a bit of a rush and need front and/or rear seals you should be able to get them at a local bearing/seal shop. The rear seal is a C/R 15000 and the front is a C/R 19242. Studebaker bearings and seals I have found are standard units used in many applications and therefore still available.
Rad frame. Just needs cleaning, sanding and paint.
Power Steering control with fresh coat of Tremclad Rust primer.
Bumper brackets and rad frame primed. As you can see I have a Studebaker thermometer. This was made up by a club member who restores a lot of old gas pumps and other memorabilia.
Got them hanging wherever I can. Hard to see, but there are two grille and front sheet metal supports and the gas pedal linkage. I don’t mind painting smaller parts by hand as long as they are not visible. That said I did paint the top of the rad and the hood latch with POR15 epoxy paint. It can come out not too bad as long as you use a fine art hair brush and lay it on fairly thickly.
Hard to get a good shot of shiny black paint.
Bumper brackets, PS control valve and rad support all done.
First thing I did was to put the engine in the car with only the left rear bracket in place. I then bolted the right rear to the block and fitted the spacer between it and the cross member.
This is the standard spacer used on these models. It is 1/2″ thick. With it in place I lowered the back of the engine to rest on the bat wing. I had earlier put the front motor mounts on the block and hung the mount brackets below them. I now lowered the block onto the front cross member.
The engine snuggled down in the front cross member nicely. However, the engine was tilted to the left side. It seemed that if I removed the rear right mount spacer the engine might come flat. I checked with the experts on the Turning Wheels Cooperator panel and was told that keeping the engine level was best. So I removed the spacer and tried some stuff. In the end I put the spacer on the left rear mount and the engine then sat level. I have been told that Studebaker used the spacer so that the shift linkage would work properly. So I won’t know if this setup is OK until I get the engine and trans in place.
With the engine in place and snugged down in the front cross member it was time to drill new holes. The 283 engine mount brackets had three holes and were situated much higher up on the cross member. When the engine slid into the front cross member it tended to go a little too far down – the rubber engine mounts distorted a bit. So I raised the engine just enough for the rubber mounts to sit up-and-down in a relaxed position. I then marked the frame for drilling the new mounting holes.
One kink was the position of the frame holes in the right mount bracket. The front cross member must have been altered to accommodate the Pontiac engine. There is a depression in the cross member under the bracket and the new mounting holes would have had to be drilled on the edge of the depression. Rather than do that I drilled two new holes in the bracket about 1/2″ to the rear of the old ones.
The only problem I faced then was getting at the upper bolt from the back through the factory hole in the frame. A bit tricky by doable.
The left mount bracket was easier using the original bracket holes. You can see the two holes for the 283 bracket. Over 1″ higher. When setting the brackets in place I positioned them so the engine mount stud fitted at about the mid point in the bracket slot.
The next thing was to put the power steering reach rod in place and check for binding. With the wheels fully to the right the rod came up against the motor mount bracket.
A little notch ground from the bracket solved that problem.
Now if I can just get my torque converter home I can set the new engine in place.
I have rebuilt the bell crank with new bearings. I found an earlier style that took bearings rather than use the new style with bushings. Probably won’t make a lot of difference with power steering and the relatively few miles the car will be driven.
It took a number of shims to get it down to a minimum of end play. Almost too many to get the cotter pin in place.
There is an o-ring and the usual Studebaker cork gasket. I’ve tried o-rings in the bottom of king pins and with them I couldn’t get grease to squeeze out the bottom. So I’m going to opt for the cork ring for this job too.
The 40+ year old cork gasket was way to small to fit. I would have had to stretch the gasket to make it big enough to fit the opening and allow the shims to fit inside. The dry gasket would split for certain. Answer: soak in hot tap water until it expands back to it’s original size.
Even after soaking for 20 minutes I still had to gently open it up just enough to allow the shims to fit inside.
With the thrust washer, castle nut and cotter pin in place the job was done.