Windshield Prep.

Primed and painted with Tremclad metal primer rust paint and then a coat of semi-gloss Tremclad. I’ll leave it a few days to cure before installing the windshield. Lots to do to get ready beforehand.

New window outer trim to replace the old units. I couldn’t get the old units to snap in place. The attaching nubs were a bit rusted, but the rubber seals were still fine.

New seals in place. A bit of a job getting them to snap in place. And then I realized I had to remove them to get the window back in !!!

Next: getting the header back on.

Windsdhield prep

More to clean at the bottom of the windshield.

Especially under the fender lip on the passenger side.

This type of cleaning wheel does a nice job getting the old sealant and surface rust off in more open areas.

Fiberglas mat epoxied in place.

The windshield seal will run right over two body seams – one on either side. I filled them with two part body filler (short tiger hair) that is water proof.

Body filler applied and I’ll sand with 40 grit when hard.

The following day I sanded the three spot to where I have a nice smooth run for the windshield seal. I have a seal coming from Corvette Depot.

Next: Extra trim clips and clean up.

Windshield success

I tried various handles for the cutting wire. This worked best. The red wire cover is a spray can pipe it worked keeping the cutting wire off the dash on the inside. Also, it took awhile for me to get the hang of it all, but finally I used short pulls with just a little pressure on the wire. Some spots were tough where the seal was thicker especially going around the bottom corner on the left side.

I made up wooden wedges from shingle stock and pushed them in the cut as I went around. When I finished up around the top left corner the windshield was complete loose 🙂

with a couple of window suction cups and help from K it was easily removed and put aside for later cleanup.

Starting the cleanup of the top sections.

Lots of crud, old sealant and rust to remove.

A fair amount of rust pitting, but I don’t think that will be a problem with paint and a new gasket/seal in place.

Only one nasty hole on the bottom right. Not enough to affect the strength too much, but will need to be repaired.

I used a dremel tool with a fine pointed bit to clean the hole out to good metal.

By rights a small patch should be welded in place. My welding skills are not nearly good enough for even this small job. I only weld something maybe every six months. If I was at it daily then I might be good enough.

Fortunately I was able to get a piece of steel behind the opening which I held in place with recessed rivets.

Fibreglass matting has been pushed in behind the edges of the hole.

Next: Fiberglassing and final fill of the frame hole and more Cleaning.

This and that

A small order in from Corvette Depot. A decal to cover the carb heater access hole, some specialty clips used in the door linkages – I don’t need them right now, but good to have on hand to save waiting if one gives out, some door access plugs and a length of cutting wire for windshield removal.

I’ve made my way up the passenger side of the window and along the top. I have been using a utility knife to cut the bead on the ouyside and on the inside along the edge of the window frame. I’ve been pushing in small wooden wedges as I go along to help keep the seal from re-attaching itself. I don’t know if I caused the chip or the chip was already there, but it is a cause of concern (red circle). I will stop the freeing of the windshield until I get the drivers door finished – I need to have the drivers side door-to-windshield upright in place to fit the door window.

This is an epoxy bonding kit I picked up from Princess Auto some time ago. Very handy for fixing cracked plastic, etc. The left side of the device holds the epoxy and the right side is a UV light to harden the epoxy. I’ve put a dab on the chip and hopefully it will stop and cracking.

I have found a way to easily paint the seat springs. A foam brush works very well so I did all the springs on the bucket seats for the Studebaker.

All painted and assembled with the reclining mechanism in place. Now to get the upholstery shop and see if and when I can get them done.

Back to the door repair. I put on a couple of coats of Tremclad gloss black and after two days I wet sanded it until it was smooth. Now I will add another couple of coats of paint and hopefully after a couple of days I can wet sand and polish.

I have already covered the hole in the snorkel with black pinstripe tape.

Looks much nicer with a Chevy decal over the hole.

I need to remove the wipers to complete the windshield work so a good time to give them a bit of an overhaul.

Next: hoping for parts to arrive from Zip Corvette.

Watching paint dry!

Finally after three coats of primer all the holes are filled in. I’ll add a last primer coat and sand it lightly before trying the glossy black top coats. The red is just a reflection of my jacket.

While waiting for paint to dry on the Chevy and parts to arrive so I can finish the doors I’m cleaning and painting one of the bucket seat frames for the Studebaker. This is one side. I need to finish the other side before I assemble them ready to show to an upholsterer.

Next: more painting and hopefully parts will arrive this week.

Yet more door work

Disaster! The spot putty is lifting the paint. This isn’t the first time it has happened. Earlier I had tried priming the area with a spray bomb and the paint lifted then also. I thought that the filler might keep the paint from lifting, but it is the same problem. I don’t know what paint was used to give the car a quick paint job for sale, but it doesn’t seem to be normal automotive enamel paint.

Each time I give the job a go the area needing paint gets larger! I have sanded off all the old filler and feathered the edges all around.

Not too clear, but I have given the area a coat of Tremclad primer paint using a fine brush. It doesn’t contain the strong solvents used in aerosols. So far so good. I will let it dry completely and then sand off the area around the depressions and then add more primer and repeat until I have a nice smooth surface. The plan is to either brush on a coat of Tremclad gloss black or put some in my hvlp spray gun which would give a smooth finish.

In the meantime I’ll install the left door window runners.

Next: and the doors continue

More and more door work

Passenger side sport mirror installed. Once again not a hard job with a template to locate the mirror holes and the window removed.

The area around the lock is getting bigger. I’ve applied spot putty to fill the depressions as a result of the fibreglass damage.

Next job is back on the driver’s door. The top rear lip of the door is scraping by the body pillar and taking the paint off.

The door needs to be shifted forward at the front bottom to increase the gap at the rear top. There is little gap left between the door and the front fender at the bottom so the movement will have to be slight – maybe 1/64″. It’s a long door so a little at the bottom corner will be a lot more at the top corner.

This is the top hinge bolts – two showing and two hidden on the left. I will leave the top inside bolt tight and loosen the other three.

These are the bottom hinge bolts. I have marked the bottom front bolt so that I can judge the movement. I will loosen the other three bolts – two hidden.

Of course when I loosened the lower bolt the door dropped too far. I used this setup to put a bit of upward pressure on the door while I loosened the lower bolt a bit to let the door come back up. The piston that lifts the seat is enough to move the door up without my having to try and lift the door while loosening and tightening the hinge bolt.

After a bit of adjusting I got it to where there is a good gap and the space along the front of the door is still OK.

Next – Yet more door work

Yet more door work!

The inside nut on one of the regulator supports was missing. I used my wire mig welder to attached a new nut. That way I won’t have to hold a nut on the inside – which is almost impossible due to it’s location.

Right side tracks all cleaned up and ready to go. I have applied a light coating of white grease to the track and a coating of chain lube to the roller. I will also apply chain lube to the rollers on the regulator and on the regulator gear and electric motor drive wheel. It sticks well and will stay in place, I’m sure, for as long as I have the car.

The regulator is normally riveted to the inner door panel at the factory. It has been worked in the past and was secured by a couple of nuts and bolts. I decided to fasten a couple of nuts to the inside as they are also difficult to get at from the inside.

When I removed the door lock I found this mess. The fibreglass was broken off or cracked around the hole. I touched it up with some fibreglass resin to stiffen things up.

I cut out a new plastic gasket for the door lock that is about 1/8″ larger than the normal one. The idea being it would provide a better support for the weakened fibreglass. A coat of primer and some gloss black seems to be holding nicely.

With a little bit of effort I was able to get the lock in place and solid enough to be fully serviceable. When it comes time for a repaint the hole needs to be filled in and a new lock opening cut out. Meanwhile, it works. I’ll touch up around the lock with some primer and gloss black.

Regulator and electric motor back in the door using the three short bolts fitted to the three welded nuts. At this point the three window channels are also in place.

Next: getting the window glass back in and making adjustments so it fits nicely against the upper door opening seals.

More on doors…

I could have bought a new set of window bumpers for each side, but I decided to rebuild the originals.

I needed to clean off all the old glue (electric wire wheel) and then glue to carpet onto the backing rubbers. Then glue the rubbers and the carpets to the metal backing.

All went well except that on one bumper the carpet had disintegrated. So I used a bit of automotive trunk carpeting.

Time to install the door seal on the left side. I attached the seal to the front an back with new screws.

I then stretched the seal around the bottom and made some positional marks every 10 inches or so.

Not a great shot, but the seal is in place. I removed the seal from the top rear and then started at the front and applied sealant to the seal and door in short sections. I used the markers to make sure I wasn’t stretching the seal as I didn’t want any excess at the top rear. Worked OK.

Right door regulator parts out for cleaning and re-lubrication. The window was working OK except that it was slow to go up and down. Once apart it was easy to see why. The grease inside the gearbox was almost solid.

I scraped off all the old grease and used 100 of air pressure to blast out the last of the stuff around the worm gear. I then filled the space up with new white grease.

Next: Yet more door work!

Air cleaner and stuff

Original style air cleaner in place along with the cold air intake. I’ll pick up a custom flex hose to connect the two a bit later. AC is a problem for a dual snorkel setup as the AC pump is in the way for the passenger side connector for the same side snorkel. Must be a special single snorkel cold air feed. I’ll have to check that out as I plan to keep the AC.

Back to the door – I pulled the front and back vertical window runners and cleaned them up. I gave them a coat of white grease and used chain lube on the roller centre.

This little item was found in the door bottom. It is normally attached to the lower front of the door glass in a special hole made for it. The clip that holds it in place is missing. It is available but not just yet. I checked and the same item on the other window is in place so I’ll use it to get the drivers door back together.

Time to replace the door seal. This screw and two at the rear top end of the door had to be drilled out. The tape didn’t save the paint. I used a piece of split rubber pipe for the back two and it worked better.

Next: getting the door seal in place and fixing the window supports.