Before going for a test run I started the engine to make sure there were no major leaks. I also checked the timing. It’s running about 8 degrees of advance. Should be 6 degrees. When I went to loosen the distributor hold-down tab I found the 9/16″ bolt to be rusted.
I tried to loosen it with a 12 point wrench, but it tried to slip. So I borrowed a 6 point wrench from a friend and is came off fine with that.
I cleaned everything off using a wire wheel and I’m using the same bolt with a shake proof washer and anti-seize on the threads. Should come off easily even with a 12 point wrench.
On the test drive. Two bugs and a couple of pluses showed up. A bad leak at the right valve cover. That was simple enough as I didn’t tighten the bolts enough.
The second was a miss in the engine firing.
On the plus side the oil pressure was up to at least 35 lbs when hot at speed. Also, the new tires ran smooth – good balancing job.
I suspected that one plug would show oily deposits from not firing. But that wasn’t the case. All plugs seemed to be firing OK. So the misfire is random. That should mean that the new wires, cap and rotor should also be OK. Next item up the line is the coil.
The coil doesn’t look to be new and may be the original. That’s an easy item to replace and eliminate from the possible causes.
Just to be sure that one lifter and valve aren’t the problem I decided to re-set valves. A job that needed to be done anyhow. Using the service manual I located top dead centre for #1 cylinder and adjusted the eight valves noted then turned the engine one full turn and adjusted the other 8.
I replaced the valve covers with stainless bolts, shake-proof washers and reinforcing arms.
I don’t use a ratchet to tighten the valve cover screws. This driver does the job. Tight as I can get is likely less than the spec for those bolts. I”m hoping the reinforcing bars will help to keep oil from weeping past the gaskets.