The manual says there is a way to take off the caliper and suspend it while working on the spindle, etc. I choose to take it off and out of the way. I”m using a old fitting with the pipe pinched off to keep the fluid from leaking out. I’ll have to bleed the brakes after, but I like to do that every two years at the least.
Lots of small parts to clean, sandblast and paint. I’m using Tremclad aluminum rust paint for all the small bits. Goes on easily and doesn’t need a primer base.
The parking brake pads on one side are fine, but this side is too far gone unfortunately. Rock auto sells Raybestos sets for about $35 cdn plus shipping.
Time to get the spindle out. I need to pull the assembly off the spindle and this is the setup that another C3 owner has used successfully. Those are3/8″ threaded rods and a thick steel plate. I tried earlier with a thinner 1/4″ steel plate, but the plate just bent and the spindle assembly didn’t move a bit. This time the plate held, but the threaded rods didn’t – even with heat applied to the spindle assembly in the bearing area. Next try will be with hardened threaded rods.
Meanwhile my fuel filter and pipe bender came in. I managed to get a line bent and the filter in place – no clamps yet. I will be adding a bracket from the front right intake manifold bolt to the fuel line for added rigidity. The line is 3/8″ nickle copper. I bought a length of brake line rather than spring for a roll as it’s quite expensive. Bends well, but even with a proper pipe bender it is easy to kink the pipe. I got a couple of kinks in the line, but nothing serious.
My double flare tool does a nice job of putting a bubble on the end of the line for better sealing. I just do the first flaring step and then just a bit of the second. Here I went just a bit too far in the second step. It still gives a nice sealing ring. It’s just not as nice as the one in the bottom left.
Next: another try as getting the spindle out.