First step is to measure the new piston clearance. They are tight on .002 so I’m thinking maybe .0015 or maybe .001. Good to go as they say.
I used the piston to push each of the two top rings in the bore to check the ring spacing. They are in the range according to the instructions with the rings – Minimum of .016, actual .020 (which is below the .027 max in the service manual)
Rings on the piston. I used my fingers to get the oil rings in place and a set of piston ring expanders to help get the first two on. I’ve rotated them according to the manual – top ring at the top, second at the bottom, oil expander at the top and the oil scrapers at 4 and 8 o’clock.
I’m coating the rings and the cylinder wall will some fresh engine oil before putting the piston in the ring compressor. I have short bits of rubber hose over the rod studs to protect the crank when the piston is pushed home.
I’ve tightened the compressor then pushed the piston out until the skirts are just showing. That helps position the piston before tapping it into the bore.
Number 1 and 2 pistons in place with a bit of plastigage on each. I’ve squeezed in a feeler gauge between the rods to stop distortion when I torqued the cap nuts. The clearance was about .016 which is a bit higher than the service manual, but less than the .025 limit other 350 references indicate.
Plastigage showing about .0015 which is way below the service manual list of .0013 to .0035.
A liberal amount of assembly lube before putting the caps back on and giving them a final torquing to 45#’
Pistons all in and ready to move on.
Next: More bottom end work