Positioning the engine over the engine bay.
There is just enough room between the hoist and the fender to set the engine down in the middle of the bay.
I installed the starter this time and it was a bit of squeeze to get it past the frame’s engine mount.
Moving the engine hoist legs sideways under the car is difficult. This time I decided to try a length of stout wood and an eight pound sledge. Worked well. I only had to use reasonable taps to move the arms slowly sideways.
Engine in place with mounting bolts and trans mount bolts installed. The left side slipped into the frame mount OK and then I had to shift the tail of the trans to the left to get the right mount to slide in place. All done with minimal damage 🙂
Best time to hook up the starter without the exhaust manifold in place. I’ve added an extra 10 gauge wire to the big solenoid connection to run to a power point if I need it later – it’s the line with the yellow connector on the end.
Crank pulley and PS pump connected. The next photos are a bit blurry for some reason?
Alternator bracket in place and getting ready to install the water pump.
Guide pins in place to help the water pump to fit without chancing a shift on the gaskets. Gaskets are treated with Permatex thread sealant and gasket maker. The engine is sitting at TDC. I did this after torquing down the crank pulley bolt. I found TDC by checking the #1 valves then backed the engine just enough to get a long bolt in the #1 plug hole. I then torqued the crank bolt which moved the piston up to where it was stopped by the bolt in the plug hole. When done I backed the crank a bit, removed the bolt in the plug hole and then used the crank bolt to move the engine back to TDC. I need to do this before I can set the distributor in place.
Water pump in place with the upper pulley on loose. I’ve fitted the alternator adjuster arm and the AC pump bracket to the upper two water pump mounting bolts so I won’t have to loosen and re-tighten them later.
Unexpected trouble. When I installed the heads I knew they could be fitted to either side so I didn’t give it much thought. Unfortunately the temperature sender opening that was used previously is on the wrong side. The factory plug is still in place on the left side where the temperature sender should fit. I tried a long handled power bar and ended up twisting the 3/8″ socket. Next I unbolted the engine mount and PS pump, lifted the engine a bit so I could get my impact wrench on the plug. Still no movement. So rather than cause damage to the block I decided to move the temperature sender to the right side.
Yet another problem. The temperature sender opening on these later heads is larger that that on the original ’70 heads. A brass bushing did the trick to get the original sender fitted.
Sender installed with Permatex thread sealant. In my last motor job I used red gasket maker in a lot of places. This time I’m opting for the Permatex thread sealant. Seems to do a good job. With the temperature sender in place I ran the sender lead to the right side. I was able to get the wire fitted inside the factory looms for the most part with a bit of effort. I then used 3M double sided tape and some small plastic wire brackets to run the lead over the heater box and down to a point where the lead goes straight to the sender – that way it should be far enough away from the exhaust manifold.
Next: more installation work